Near the borders of Belize and Guatemala the small town of Bacalar sits on the shores of a lagoon reflecting seven striking colors of blue, turquoise and every color in between. Bacalar is the perfect place to kick back and relax in a hammock suspended over the Laguna Bacalar’s transparent waters. Yet this Pueblo Mágico, or Magic Town, is so much more than its dazzling lake of seven colors. Founded by the Mayans in 400s, Bacalar has a captivating history complete with Mayan legends, Spanish conquistadors, and pirate attacks. So, while you may find yourself in Bacalar for the lagoon, you’ll also discover yourself enchanted by the relaxed vibe, artsy culture, and mouthwatering sabor of the Yucatan’s oldest town.

A longtime destination for Mexican families, international travelers are increasingly being drawn to Bacalar’s lagoon and authentic charm. The enchanting colors and clear waters of the lagoon are the results of a unique and delicate ecosystem that supports the growth of stromatolites, the Earth’s most ancient life form. Despite the lagoon’s 54 kilometers of shoreline, Bacalar is not your quintessential Mexican beach town. You will not find sandy, palm tree lined beaches along the lakeshore, or really beaches at all. Instead, rustic docks and palapas jut out over the water while sailboats, pontoon boats and kayaks skip by. While there is no lounging on white sand beaches here, there are endless possibilities for exploring the shifting colors of the lagoon, including boat tours, kayaking along mangroves, paddle-boarding its glassy waters, swimming at a balneario, or snorkeling the connected cenotes.

Recent development, tourism, and agriculture are taking a toll on the fragile ecosystem of the lagoon. As more tourists discover the magic of Bacalar, the greater the risk is of irreversible damage to the lagoon. So, when traveling to Bacalar, it is important to educate yourself, practice sustainable tourism, and take care to contribute to the preservation of this unique natural wonder. Here is a guide for exploring and preserving the lagoon.

History and Culture

The Plaza Central is the heartbeat of this laid-back town. Surrounded by cafes, restaurants, and shops, the plaza buzzes with people admiring artisans’ wares, snacking on marquesitas, and snapping pictures in front the colorful BACALAR letters. Across the street from the plaza, the Fuerte de San Felipe sits upon a hill overlooking the lagoon. The 16th century fort was constructed by the Spanish for protection from pirate attacks as well as from the Mayan fighting to regain control of their rightful land. The entry cost of 150 pesos is a little steep, but the fort offers great views as well as a small museum documenting the history of the area dating back to its Mayan origins. Strolling away from the plaza, you will find an abundance of colorful street art adorning buildings and walls. There are also many shops and stands selling artisan wood products, hammocks, dream catchers, and wind chimes dripping with strands of melodic shells. There is not much of a nightlife in Bacalar, but there are a few bars where you can enjoy a beer or a mezcal.

There are several archeological sites within an hour of Bacalar that are well worth the visit. These sites are an insightful look back in time to the expansive Mayan civilizations that thrived for over a thousand years before Spanish colonization ravaged these communities. Located within a couple of kilometers from one another, there is one entry fee for both Zona Arqueológica de Dzibanché and Kinichná, which were both part of the same community. These sites are remote, but after the drive down a muddy dirt road (our economy rental care made the trip), you will be rewarded with spectacular sprawling ruins with absolutely no crowds. On our visit we had the grounds completely to ourselves. If you are lucky, as we were, you will spot curious spider monkeys swinging through the trees and hear the guttural grunts of the more elusive howler monkeys in the distance. Nearby is the Zona Arqueológica de Kohunlich; this site dating back to 300 B.C. is even more extensive than Dzibanché. I recommend planning a day to visit both of these sites. Oxtankah, outside of Chetumal, is also worth a visit, but has more visitors and is not as impressive as Dzibanché and Kohunlich. Entry to the sites is 150 pesos per person.

Food and Drink

The restaurants of Bacalar serve up a lot of big flavors for such a small town. Here you will find the generous use of green habañeros in the salsas and pico de gallos. I love the heat and flavor of habeñeros, but if you can’t take the heat, use caution with the salsas! Do try the chicinita pibil, a traditional Mayan dish originally cooked in underground ovens. Today lean pork is marinated in citrus achiote blend, wrapped in banana leaves, and slowly baked. Caribbean flavors infuse the ceviches, and there is plenty of seafood to enjoy, including shrimp, fish, and squid. Keep an eye out for chaya, a spinach like herb found in various dishes, drinks, and smoothies. Rich queso de bola, a semi-hard cheese that originated in the Netherlands, has been integrated into Yucatan cuisine and can be found in dishes from the decadent queso relleno (stuffed cheese) to empanadas to marquesitas, a waffle cone-like vessel filled with cheese. Be sure to also savor some of the pineapple grown nearby in the village of Pedros Santos. Who can say no to a piña colada while on vacation?

There are a lot of options to taste the flavors of the Yucatan. For a no-frills, local, breakfast and lunch place, try Benedicion de Dios. Located next to the markets in town, you’ll find tacos, tortas and empanadas at very low prices. Taqueria Alambre is another local taqueria located on the main highway. Of course, here you need to order one of the several alambre options, which consists of a flavorful mix of meats, veggies and cheese. They serve only one cocktail, the piña colada, and it was truly one of the best I’ve every had. A great place to try chicinita pibil is at Taqueria Coonex Hanal, an unassuming locale where a husband and wife duo are serving up fresh ingredients in traditional dishes.

For seafood you have to try Taco Loco, on the outskirts of town. This taco joint frequented by locals and tourists alike offers an extensive menu of ceviches, seafood dishes and seafood tacos in every style you can imagine. La Playita is another great option for seafood. Located right on the lagoon, this is definitely more of a touristy restaurant, but you cannot beat its ambiance and views. The dishes are tasty and surprisingly reasonably priced, but the highlight of this place is their cocktail menu. The jalapeño mezcal is the perfect blend of smoke, spice and citrus.

El Manati is definitely worth checking out for their flavorful breakfast and lunch dishes made with fresh, local ingredients. Enjoy a cup of coffee paired with enmoladas or chilaquiles en mole in the tropical garden, then check out the local art in the restaurant’s tienda. Finally, do not skip Barbanegra Taqueria and Cantina where the food is excellent, the service in on point, and the ambience is trendy without being pretentious. This spot a few blocks from the main square served some of the best food we had in Bacalar, again at very reasonable prices. The Caribbean ceviche is fresh and flavorful. Or, savor the pastor tacos wrapped in handmade, blue tortillas paired with a fresh squeezed cocktail.

Where to Stay

Accommodations in Bacalar are very reasonably priced and include hostels, standard hotels, boutique hotels, and eco-resorts. While there are not many hotels in town located right on the lagoon, most are centrally located within walking distance of restaurants, shopping and the water. To the north of town are several waterfront eco-resorts ranging from camping to upscale. What you will not find in Bacalar (yet) are sprawling all-inclusive resorts or high-rise hotels, and hopefully it stays that way. Below are some moderately priced accommodations in the $70-$100 range for the sustainability-minded traveler.

Centrally located Hotel Aires Bacalar is walking distance to the town square and only a block away from the lagoon. The simple, modern suites with private balconies offer incredible views and are designed to connect the guests with nature. Amenities include a salt water pool, and the hotel is committed to sustainability and the protection of the lagoon.

Another moderately priced, centrally located option is Oasis Suites Balacar, which offers clean suites and apartments with full kitchens. Oasis Suites is similarly a short walk from the town square and a block from the lagoon. Its rooms range from small, single bed rooms to multi-bed suites. This quaint hotel also has a pool on property.

If you are looking to immerse yourself in nature and the beauty of the Laguna Bacalar, stay at Villas Pehaltun. Located about 10 minutes north of town by car, three waterfront casitas are available for rent on four acres of jungle property right on the lagoon. The clean, comfortable, casitas offer kitchenettes, privacy, and balconies overlooking the water. The property also has a private dock and free use of kayaks to explore the lagoon. For those looking for a relaxing, peaceful stay right on the lagoon, this is a great option.

Overlooking the Bacalar Lagoon, Pucté Bacalar is another option for travelers who would like to stay out of town with lagoon access. This villa with four private rooms and a common kitchen area has a minimalist feel designed to connect guests to nature. Here you can enjoy views of the lagoon, private lagoon and dock access, paddle board usage and jungle surroundings.

Getting There and Around

Bacalar is located around 4 hours south of Cancun and 30 minutes north of Chetumal, both cities with international airports. If renting a car, the routes are easy and the roads are in good shape coming from either location. Autobuses Unidos (A division of ADO) leave Cancun for Bacalar approximately every 4 hours and cost $20-$30. The trip from Cancun by bus takes about 6 hours. The same bus company travels the half hour route from Chetumal to Bacalar three times a day for under $10. A taxi from Chetumal to Bacalar costs around $50.

Bacalar very walkable, and if staying in town you can easily reach restaurants, shopping and the lagoon on foot. You can also rent bikes to cruise around town or travel to the cenotes on the southern end of town. Taxis are also very inexpensive and an easy way explore the edges of the town. You can certainly make this trip work using public transportation, but we found that it was worth the cost of renting a car because of the freedom it provided to stay outside of town and to take day trips to explore archaeological sites and the coast. There are tours available to the sites, however, if you do not have your own car.

Note that services such as banks and ATMs are lacking in Bacalar. It is not unheard of for ATMs to run out of money. So, to avoid an unwanted trip to nearby Chetumal, hit the ATM before heading to Bacalar. Otherwise, services such as pharmacies, small grocery stores, and gas stations are all available, and you should be able find everything you need and more in this charming, historic town.